Friday, November 17, 2023

A Memorable Journey: Four Days in Krakow 馃彴

Krakow, the enchanting jewel of Poland, beckons travelers with its rich history, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality. Spending four days in this captivating city promises an unforgettable experience filled with exploration, delicious cuisine, and friendly encounters. In this guide, we'll take you on a journey through the must-see attractions, hidden gems, and culinary delights that Krakow has to offer.

      
                 Kosciuszko Mound


Four days in Krak贸w is enough time to explore the key sightseeing districts in the centre of the city and to head out of town for at least one day trip! This is the ideal way to make the most of four days in Krak贸w, as it offers the most flexibility.

Some Things to Keep in Mind About Exploring Krak贸w:

There is a lot to see and do in Krak贸w. This four-day schedule includes many key attractions, focusing on the Old Town, a day trip to either Auschwitz or the Wieliczka Saltmines, the ‘socialist realist’ area of Nowa Huta, as well as the Kazimierz and Podg贸rze districts.

"Zak" a medieval student


Tip: Every trip to Krak贸w will include a lot of walking. Make sure you have comfortable footwear and protection against the rain. The tourist season is from April to October, and opening times vary accordingly. Certain areas get crowded in summer.


Day 1: Stare Miasto (Krak贸w Old Town) and Wawel

1. 馃搷Breakfast: Milkbar Tomasza

Breakfast in Krakow is a surefire way to immerce in local life and kick off day exploring the Old Town! Milkbar Tomasza does a great breakfast for reasonable price, and is very popular with Krakow’s residents.

Info: During the 20th century, milk bars were a form of cafeteria designed to offer cheap but nourishing food, with their fortunes tied to the turbulence of Poland's political history. Tomasza is a contemporary update on the milk bar, retaining the homely menu and price.  It's cosy, a little chaotic, and fills up soon after 8am. Chances are you'll end up sharing a table, but this is a friendly introduction to the city!

Note: Milkbar Tomasza is closed on Monday.

2. 馃搷Rynek G艂贸wny

This is a perfect time to get photos of Krak贸w’s Main Square (Rynek G艂贸wny) without too many tourists, while the restaurants are still taking in deliveries and before the main attractions are open.

Cloth Hall

Spend some time exploring the entire square, taking in the Town Hall Tower and the ‘Eros Bendato’ statue (known as ‘The Head’) on the far side of the Cloth Hall, the Church of St. Adalbert to the south, and the gorgeous buildings on all four sides. Each of these has its own history. 


The Head

3. 馃搷Rynek Underground

From 2005, Rynek G艂贸wny underwent a huge excavation project, revealing foundations and artefacts to the beginning of Krak贸w’s past. The 6,000 metre area is now an imaginative and engaging state-of-the-art museum explaing Krak贸w’s history, directly beneath the pavement of the Main Square. It’s the ideal way to find out more about what you have just seen above ground.

馃憠Entry is limited to 300 people at a time, so advanced booking is recommended.
Print your reservation out, as a digital confirmation will not always be accepted in Poland. You pay for the ticket when you pick it up. Cards are accepted. 

Tip: Admission is free on Tuesdays, but places are always booked up early.

There are holograms, models, and reconstructions, a series of genuinely entertaining films, and an exhibit on how to bury vampires, as well as many objects and trinkets.

Rynek Glowny Underground museum - forge of 13th century

4. 馃搷 St. Mary’s Basilica

Directly opposite the Cloth Hall, and impossible to miss, the elaborate Gothic interior of St. Mary’s Basilica is an absolute treat for the eyes. It is traditionally unveiled with great ceremony at 11:50am each day.

The northern tower served as lookout for the city and, from here, a bluesy bugle call is played at the top of every hour. This call breaks off abruptly mid-melody, allegedly to honour a trumpeter shot with an arrow in 1241.

St. Mary’s Basilica

5. 馃搷 Sukiennice to Church of St. Francis of Assisi

Leave St. Mary’s and cross over to the Cloth Hall. This indoor market is often claimed to be the world’s oldest shopping mall! You can amble through, looking at the souvenirs, and exit on the southern side. Cross over and down into ul. Bracka directly opposite.

There are some pretty shops and atmospheric cafes down here. Follow the street to the very end and turn right into Franciszka艅ska. Cross over to the small green on the right hand side and look back across the road. You’ll see the Bishop’s Palace with the Papal Window, a mosaic to commemorate the evening addresses Cardinal Karol Wojty艂a made from there before becoming Pope John Paul II in 1978. Wojty艂a’s presence is felt all over the city.

To your right is the entrance to Church of St. Francis of Assisi. Entry is free and there aren’t the kinds of crowds you’ll find at some of the more famous locations. Highly recommended!

6. 馃搷 Lunch! Grodzka Street

Grodzka forms the final leg of the Royal Route up to Wawel and has a number of impressive churches and other points of interest. There’s also plenty of places to stop for lunch. If you fancy Polish (with a touch of Italian), I recommend a window table in Mi贸d Malina, on the corner of Grodzka and Poselska. 

If the weather is good, you can pick up a snack from a street vendor. Obwarzanek are similar to pretzels and can be bought for a couple of z艂oty each. 

Obwarzanek

7. 馃搷 Wawel Hill

Wawel is a complex of different attractions, each of which are highlights to any Krak贸w visit. Your best bet is to focus your energy on either the Cathedral or the Royal Apartments, as each will take a couple of hours to see, and you’ll want a bit of time to stroll around the grounds. I especially recommend a guided tour if you want to get the most out of the Castle. You can book in advance through Get Your Guide and need only turn up at the right time, handily sidestepping the queues. You’ll come away with a much greater understanding of Poland’s impressive history.

Info: The grounds are free to enter and offer panoramic views. 

Take advantage, even if you don’t intend to tackle any of the paid attractions.

I visited the Cathedral and I would say that it was worth it!

                                                        Wawel's Cathedral

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馃憠馃徎Early Evening: Rest at your hotel. Any trip to Krak贸w will involve a lot of walking. You’ll certainly need to put your feet up for a while. If it’s a fine evening, you can sit by the river to recuperate or make your way back to your hotel for a couple of hours.

Tip: The extended KrakowCard includes unlimited use of buses and trams within zones I and II. Whilst this may not end up the cheaper option, it is convenient to be able to hop on and off at will.

I paid through Get Your Guide 50€ and it included free entrance to buses and trams as to almost 36 museums for 3 days!

8. 馃搷Food and drink. Old Town or Forum Przestrzenie.

As you will have discovered, the Old Town is packed with a fantastic range of places to eat and drink, and the standard is generally good. It’s great fun to bar hop and just follow your instincts.

Another option for summer that they informed me about, is Forum Przestrzenie on the banks of the Vistula. This is a brutalist Soviet-era hotel converted into a multi-purpose venue. It’s good for a drink. It gets busy in the evenings and there can be long wait times for food. There’s a gallery, huge murals, DJs, ping pong tables, and the like.

Vistula River

Day 2: Auschwitz or Wieliczka Saltmines and shopping

1. 馃搷Auschwitz or Wieliczka Salt Mines

  • For many, a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum is the main reason to come to Krak贸w. This solemn reminder of the Holocaust is a poignant experience, emphasizing the importance of remembrance and understanding.
馃憠馃徎You can pre-book a tour with transport included, which will last 6-7 hours in total.
  • If you have already been to Auschwitz, I recommend a morning excursion to the incredible Wieliczka Saltmines, a UNESCO World Heritage site located just outside Krakow. Explore the fascinating underground chambers, chapels, and sculptures, all carved from salt by generations of miners!
Wieliczka Saltmines

馃憠馃徎You can pre-book a tour with transport pickup included for just after 8am, which will last roughly 4 hours in total. 

I pre-booked with Cracow For You - Local Tours & More including transfer. I totally recommend these guys! They were friendly, professionals and very helpful! 

馃憠馃徎If you’re travelling to Krak贸w at Christmas, a seasonal market is a lot of fun.

Copernicus - The first visitor of the museum
 


King Casimir III

Salt water lake where its composition is similar to that of the Dead Sea.

2. 馃搷Lunch

Pod Wawalem restaurant is a perfect place for a hearty eastern European lunch. With a covered veranda in Planty Park itself, Wawalem serves huge plates of pork knuckle, duck, steak and other (mostly) meaty fare.

Alternatively, just grab some bits and pieces for a packed lunch in Planty Park, if it’s a fine day.

Zapienkaki local street food sandwich!


4.  馃搷 Karmello.

Although a chain rather than a native of Krak贸w, Karmello is a nice place to pick up some handmade chocolates as gifts. Beer truffle, anyone? You can ask for them to be personalised and pick them up later. It’s also a caf茅 with a range of deliciously thick chocolate drinks, such as apple cinnamon and mint, and window views of Grodzka!

5. 馃搷 Galeria Plakatu (Cracow Poster Gallery)

Though relatively small, Galeria Plakatu has an impressive range of posters for film, theatre, and proganda, as well as postcards. 

6. 馃搷 Pasaz 13.

Tucked innocuously behind the fa莽ade of two historic town houses, Pasa偶 13 is what you might call a boutique shopping mall! Ingeniously constructed in a relatively small space, this cluster of fashion stores is accompanied by a delicatessen, restaurant, and bar with an extensive wine cellar. Worth a visit just for the architecture.

7. 馃搷 Szambelan

Sklep Szambelan is a fascinating and unique little shop, focused on all things liquid. They sell delicious vodkas, meads, and absinthes, decanted from bulbous flasks, which you can taste before you buy, but also oils, vinegar, tinctures, and a range of artistic bottles in different shapes and sizes. However, the stunning range of vodka is the star of the show.

8. 馃搷 Sukiennice

You may have already stopped off at this Renaissance equivalent of a shopping mall as part of your sightseeing, but now is a good opportunity to load up on souvenirs. You’ll find a little of everything here and can pick up some distinctive gifts to take back home. 

9. 馃搷 Massolit Books & Caf茅.

On the other end of the ideological spectrum to Red is Bad (presumably) is this exceptional progressive English bookshop and caf茅. They stock around 20,000 new and used titles, which you’re free to read and peruse as you relax in an armchair. Great coffee and baked goods, and regular events. The bakery is great too, with delicious fresh nibbles being pumped all day on the premises.

10. 馃搷 Kogel Mogel.

Widely considered to be one of Krak贸w’s finest Polish restaurants, with a thumbs up from Michelin, the Galician menu has traditional favorites' like duck and goose, and an excellent choice of wines. 

Info:  Kogel Mogel is located in Sienna, which leads out of the Main Square. 

11. 馃搷 W贸dka Caf茅 Bar.

Vodka production is a long and venerable tradition in Poland, with many flavors, variations and local traditions. This cosy little bar and their platter of six tasting vodkas is the perfect introduction, especially as the staff are so friendly. It could change your life. They also have a great selection of bottled beers.

As I was by myself, I ordered only 3 options and they were already enough to get me drunk! 馃槀


馃憠馃徎You might also want to try one of the many Krak贸w vodka tours.

Day 3: Art, Culture and Nowa Huta

1. 馃搷Bistro Charlotte – Chleb i Wino

Chleb means bread, which holds a special, almost holy, place in the pantheon of Polish food. Charlotte is a French-style bistro with shelves of fresh, premises-baked loaves racked up behind the counter. Expect all-day continental breakfasts with croissants, jams, and good coffee. Bench tables add to the lively atmosphere or grab a seat in the window to look out over Szczepa艅ski.

A great alternative for sunny mornings is to get some bits and pieces from Stary Kleparz market and have a picnic breakfast in Planty Park

2. 馃搷 Plac Szczepa艅ski and the Palace of Fine Arts

After breakfast, take a stroll around plac Szczepa艅ski. Directly opposite Bistro Charlotte is the Palace of Fine Arts. Jacek Malczewski’s frieze around the exterior is the star here, symbolising the creative process. The other sculptures and details represent aspects of Krak贸w culture from start of the 20th century.

3. 馃搷 Collegium Maius

Dating from the 14th century, Collegium Maius was the main campus for the Jagiellonian, one of the oldest (and most historically prestigious) universities in the world. Beyond the deceptive gateway is a gorgeous courtyard with balconies, which can be visited for free. The courtyard clock strikes every other hour, from 9am until 5pm, as an utterly charming parade of historical figures process from beneath its face. Next door is a free garden with information about swordfighting between nobles (!) and various scientific contraptions.

Info: Entrance to the building itself is only possible with a guided tour and places are strictly limited to 20 people at one time.

4. 馃搷 National Museum, Main Building

The building is home to collections of decorative and 20th-century Polish art, as well as arms and uniforms, but the temporary shows are the bigger draw. 

Note: The permanent collections are free on Sunday and the gallery is closed on Monday. 

You shouldn’t have any trouble buying a ticket at the museum itself but you could also book in advance from Get Your Guide, just to be on the safe side. A KrakowCard will also get you into the permanent collections.

Tip: Use the official National Museum website to check what’s on.

5. 馃搷 Lunch. C.K. Browar

Just outside the Old Town, opposite Planty Park, the C.K. Browar is a mighty Austro-Hungarian beer hall with large platters of hearty food. The beer here is excellent – it can be tempting to stay the rest of the day. 

6. 馃搷 Nowa Huta

Built in the 1950s according to the principles of socialist realism, Nowa Huta was intended as a worker’s utopia, a new city for 100,000 people, radiating out along five grand avenues from a central square. It was never finished and the huge statue of Lenin was torn down in 1989. Nowa Huta particularly benefits from an informative guide to bring some local colour.

The 30-minute trip to Nowa Huta comes with a couple of caveats. Compared to similar architectural projects, such as Berlin’s Karl-Marx-Allee, it is a little underwhelming. This is, after all, a residential area rather than a tourist destination, so it has no obligation to entertain. 

The main points of interest are spread out and the whole area is currently undergoing reconstruction. However, it represents an important era of Polish history which is almost invisible in the central parts of Krak贸w. 

7. 馃搷 Nowa Huta Museum

Built into the ground floor of an apartment block, this small museum features posters, furniture, and other period artifacts to give a flavor of life in the socialist ‘workers’ paradise’.

Note: the museum is closed on Monday.

The museum is actually split across two locations, and this is where things get complicated. The other part is based in the old Kino 艢wiatowid cinema building. The temporary exhibitions on the ground floor are usually aimed at local residents but one of Nowa Huta’s 250 underground nuclear shelters is now open to the public.  

Furthermore, Nowa Huta Underground requires a separate ticket and is only open on Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday. 

Note: There is free entry on Tuesday.

8. 馃搷 Arka Pana

A joyous 1970s wonder of a building, Arka Pana (The Lord’s Ark aka Church of the Queen of Poland). Built entirely by volunteers, somewhat in defiance of everything Nowa Huta was supposed to represent, it is an eccentric and colorful experience, with a huge rainbow of light running behind the balcony and various truly curious artifacts, including a piece of moon rock.

Please note: no entry during mass, and only open to visitors between 3-4pm on Sunday!

9. 馃搷 Restauracja Stylowa

There are some tasty food trucks south of Ronald Reagan, you won’t want to pass up the opportunity to eat in a restaurant of the Polish People’s Republic. Stylowa is something close to dining in Nowa Huta, 1970s style.

After your meal, wander back down to Ronald Reagan Square

10. 馃搷 Night Stroll in Planty Park and Nocturnal Exploration of the Old Town

Once the sun goes down, the walkways of Planty Park are atmospherically lit and you’ll find the benches occupied with couples and friends. The mood in the Old Town also changes as the nightlife kicks in. If you want to get to know this side of Krak贸w, there are probably hundreds of bars to choose from. Start with Staropolskie Trunki on Floria艅ska and see what you can find tucked away in passageways and underground.

The biggest fun are Krak贸w’s ‘secret bars’ that demand a bit of work on your part. Mercy Brown is at Floriana Straszewskiego 28, just outside the Old Town.  

Tip: It’s worth asking the staff in the bars you go to if they can recommend anywhere special!

Day 4: Podgorze and Kazimierz

1. 馃搷 Breakfast: Fresh Caf茅.

Fresh Caf茅 is a smart little place high up within the amazing CRICOTEKA building. There are excellent views over the river and over to the Old Town. The speciality here is coffee and cake.

Note: The cafe opens at 9am on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, but doesn’t open until 10am on other days. 

2. 馃搷 Ghetto Heroes Square and Pharmacy Under the Eagle

Retrace your steps back to plac Bohater贸w Getta. The empty chairs offer a poetic response to the complex history behind this site. The square lay just inside the main gate to the Krak贸w Ghetto. From here, the residents would have waited for deportation, carrying the possessions and furniture that would eventually be left behind and abandoned. But the monument also conveys are more hopeful message. The square was also a place to socialize and a base for resistance.

Monument with empty chairs

On the south side of the square is a tiny museum known as Pharmacy Under The Eagle (Apteka Pod Or艂em). This is an intimate and tactile recreation of Tadeusz Pankiewicz’ chemist shop which continued to function as the ghetto was created around it. Telling the story from such a focused perspective is an ingenious way to convey the events that took place directly outside. Someone told me that he was the only Polish who was allowed to work on the Ghetto that time of period.


Pharmacy Under The Eagle

Note: You’ll get in free with a KrakowCard. 

3. 馃搷 Schindler’s Factory

As you’ll probably know from Steven Spielberg’s 1993 film, Oskar Schindler was a wartime industrialist who managed to protect a number of local Jews by employing them in this factory. This story actually forms a relatively small part of the museum’s evocation of Jewish life in Krak贸w through the 20th century. Absolutely recommended.



Schindler’s Factory museum


Note: It’s free on Mondays, and you can get admission with a KrakowCard, but you’ll have to move fast!

It’s best to reserve well in advance and turn up early to pick up your ticket. You can use the official reservation system.

Tip: Next door is MOCAK, one of Poland’s newest major art galleries, and a snapshot of Polish contemporary work. 

4. 馃搷 Bernatek Footbridge

Linking the two districts of Podg贸rze and Kazimierz, the Father Bernatek Footbridge has become a much loved landmark, particularly since Jerzy K臋dziora’s neatly balanced sculptures of acrobats were added. 

馃憠馃徎You will also find it on the google maps as "the love bridge" and you know what else you will find there! Padlocks of course! 馃挀

5. 馃搷 Lunch in Kazimierz

Starka — Restaurant & Vodkas is famed in these parts not only for their sumptuous Polish cuisine, but also for their head-spinning brand of vodkas, such as cranberry or ginger flavor, concocted on these very premises. The restaurant's atmosphere is classic old Kazimierz, with warm red walls covered by Zille paintings setting the perfect tone for pleasant meal.

It was recommended to me by locals, so I had to try and it was worth it! 

Note: It is also a beautiful option for dinner as it has a nice yard on the side for the summer season!

6. 馃搷 Szeroka Street

After lunch, take the opportunity to explore Szeroka Street and the surrounding area. Close by are the Remu’h Synagogue and Cemetery, which date from the mid-16th century, though still active. 

Note: These are not open to the public on Saturday. 

Keep your eyes open for the ‘bench’ dedicated to Jan Karski, a member of the Polish underground and one of the first to report on the concentration camps. 

At the other end of Szeroka is the Jewish Museum in the Old Synagogue. 

The whole area is full of quaint side streets and interesting shops.

7. 馃搷 Galicia Jewish Museum

Galicia was a geographical region that once spread across parts of what is now Poland and Ukraine, and the Galicia Jewish Museum was set up to explore the Jewish culture of this area through contemporary photography. What makes this gallery so fascinating is how the photographs interact with the stories told by the other museums, not to negate them but to create a richer, more complex, picture.

Tip: Entry entry is free with a KrakowCard.

8. 馃搷 Judah Square Food Truck Park

There are a number of murals dotted around Kazimierz. Judah is by Israeli street artist Pilpeled and has lent its name to the collection of tasty food trucks that it overlooks. 

9. 馃搷 Bar hopping around Plac Nowy

By day, a market place with a squat, brick rotunda in the centre, Plac Nowy becomes the best departure point for an evening of bar hopping. With Alchemia, Mleczarnia, and Bar Atelier just off the square itself, there’s also plenty to choose from in the surrounding streets. It gets messy with pub crawls as the evening wears on, so the early start might be to your advantage.

Tip: I would also recommend to try a local sandwich called "Zapienkaki" which is at the Plac Nowy square. 

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Note: I made a 4-day itinerary through my small research before visiting Krakow and added a few personal options! You can change the days or the hours of course!

As your four-day journey in Krakow comes to an end, reflect on the memories you've made, the friendships forged, and the cultural riches you've discovered. Krakow, with its friendly locals and enchanting ambiance, will forever hold a special place in your heart. Until next time, when you return to explore even more of this magical city, bid farewell with a smile, knowing that you've experienced the best that Krakow has to offer. 

Until next time, stay safe, and keep traveling! ✈️















A Memorable Journey: Four Days in Krakow 馃彴

Krakow, the enchanting jewel of Poland, beckons travelers with its rich history, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality. Spending four days i...